Mr Su’s is another import from the other side (could we even say the wrong side?) of the Pennines, one of a few that have made - or are making - the journey from Leeds to plot up here in Manchester.

Craft brewery North Brewing Co has set up here, coupling IPAs with bao buns at its taproom in Circle Square. Soon enough, we’ll have a branch of House of Fu, doing superlative ramen and karaoke till all hours, and Mean Eyed Cat, a deep south inspired dive bar situation on Oldham Street.

Mr Su - now, like North Brewing, also set up on Circle Square - has done great work in Leeds, serving up steaming bowls of noodles and dumplings that you can order by the dozen. And who wouldn’t want to buy dumplings by the dozen? Or two dozen, for that matter.

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Better still, Mr Su (he’s an actual man, not a marketing construct, with a 25 year career in posh hotels in the UK, China and Dubai) is doing everything very much with an eye on price. So a giant bowl of chicken soup with rice noodles will cost you £9.50. And six dumplings are an inflation-busting £3.90. 12 are £7.50, 18 are £10.90 and 24 are £13.90.

Yes, you can buy a plate of 24 dumplings at once, and if there’s a better offer in Manchester, I don’t know about it. In fact, there’s nowhere else in town offering up prices like this, with bowls of ramen (though this isn’t ramen, of course) increasingly clocking in around the £15 mark these days.

Not here though. Instead of waiting staff, once you’ve ordered you get a number and take a seat in the canteen-style dining room. Then every few minutes, there’s a ‘ding dong’ and then an announcement over the PA. It’s like being at the airport.

So what they’re saving on waiting staff is going into making your lunch cheaper, and they’re rattling it out at a fair pace too. On my visit, lunch was ready in about five minutes flat, a bowl of stewed beef brisket with rice noodles, and a heap of lamb and spring onion dumplings, all cosied up together.

Also ordered was a roast duck hotpot noodles, for £9.90. And all of it was great. There are stations where you can add in extra ingredients to your steaming cauldron of soup, from chilli oil and chopped coriander to exotic-looking slices of lotus root.

And weirdly, the constant ‘ding dong’ of the next order coming up to be retrieved wasn’t even annoying. It gave the place a bit of a buzz. The soup base for the brisket soup was full of flavour, and the beef - generous chunks of it - fell to pieces just as it should.

The duck on the thick belt noodles, almost like pasta but loaded up with crunchy bean sprouts, had crisped up skin and was great too. The dumplings were belting, and I could have inhaled 24 of them easily, all drenched in light soy sauce and black vinegar.

Next time, and there will be a next time, I might just get those on their own. Mr Su’s is quick, easy, pretty damn cheap compared to its nearest rivals, but most importantly of all, delicious.

Mr Su's, 7 Nobel Way, Manchester M1 7FU