In a recent episode of Channel 4’s reality show Five Star Kitchen: Britain’s Next Great Chef, the competitors are tasked with reinventing a five-star hotel’s iconic afternoon tea.

No one wants to put a foot wrong, but like all cooking shows, there has to be some drama. Whether it's the theatrical mad hatters tea party lacking in substance, the edible soil and deer heart pushing boundaries and taste buds, or the rather sorry looking Battenberg served up to a less than impressed Michel Roux Jr, it begs the question - are some things just best left alone?

Of course, afternoon tea purists are happiest when there’s dainty finger sandwiches, fluffy scones with lashings of clotted cream, and bottomless pots of tea. That said, the tradition can get a bit stale, the whole charade of donning your Sunday best, taking small, mouse-like bites of prawn cocktail sarnies and remembering to keep your pinky raised when sipping your English Breakfast.

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So perhaps a slight departure from tradition is not so bad, and here in Manchester, a city that’s all about experimentation, we’re not short of afternoon tea spots prepared to think outside the box - whilst still staying true to the pastime. In fact, one of the most popular concepts came back up on our radar recently after a group of customers failed to show up for their booking there.

Cocoa Cabana, an award-winning independent chocolatier with cafes in West Didsbury and Ancoats is loved for its melt-in-the-mouth truffles, dreamy cakes and a truly astounding number of hot chocolates varieties. But last month its owner was left to throw out a £100 pre-prepared afternoon tea for a party of four who failed to turn up. Cocoa Cabana boss Sarah Gallacher couldn’t even claim the money back from the credit card left with the booking as it had been cancelled.

Explaining further details about what happened, Sarah told the Manchester Evening News: "We used to take deposits, but we found that put people off booking, so we changed it to taking card details instead. It explains when you book that we need 48 hours to cancel otherwise you will be charged.

"It's just the fact you're phoning people and they don't answer. Most people are reasonable, and we've had people who have had to cancel who say they'll come and pick up the afternoon teas instead as they know the costs involved in making it all."

As she also pointed out at the time, customers cancelling cards appears to be an industry-wide issue right now. But, for many hospitality businesses struggling amid mounting cost pressures such as high interest rates and energy bills, it couldn't be worse timed.

With this in mind, and because last week was Afternoon Tea Week, we decided to pay Cocoa Cabana's Didsbury shop a visit and give their chocolate afternoon tea a try.

Founded in 2012 by Sarah after training as a chocolatier at the famous Slattery’s in Whitefield, the business has gained a strong following for its artisan, additive-free chocolates, homemade cakes and chocolate afternoon teas. Stepping inside the Burton Road doors, the chocolate-laden cafe immediately feels relaxed, dark blue velvet sofas line one wall, while booths framed by a floral mural line the other.

It’s difficult not to be tempted by the colourful chocolates, massive brownies and rocky road treats lining the marble counter, but having caught a quick glimpse of the scones on a neighbouring table, exhibiting some restraint seems like the best course of action.

Given that chocolate is their bread and butter, you might expect a suitably sweet slant, but when the gold-rimmed stand arrives, there’s an even split of sweet and savoury. Costing £25 per person, guests are served up a selection of finger sandwiches, wraps, a homemade scone with clotted cream and jam, macrons, millionaire cheesecake tarts, a custard and lemon pot and Cocoa Cabana chocolates or truffles.

To top it off, the afternoon tea is served with unlimited tea, coffees, and hot chocolates giving you plenty of choice and flexibility. For three pounds more you can add a glass of prosecco, or if celebrations are in order, there’s the afternoon tea with unlimited prosecco, beer and wine for £40 - which feels like quite the steal when you consider city centre prices.

Both the egg mayonnaise and ham and cheese finger sandwiches are served in dainty slithers of wholemeal bread, while the tuna mayonnaise and chicken and tarragon mayonnaise are served in wraps - the latter a standout of the savoury selection. Wolfed down at record speed, it’s onto the sweet selection where Cocoa Cabana’s flair for chocolate really shines.

In a nod to custom, it’s the freshly baked, still warm scone up first - and I'm glad to report the knife cuts through like butter. Without stoking a debate about whether its cream or jam first, both are scraped out of their glass ramekins and dolloped on the perfectly raised baked button.

Equally delicious, the small but mighty chocolate millionaire cheesecake tart fits easily in the hand - and mouth as it happens. It disappears within a couple of bites sadly on account of its dainty proportions, but is easily one of the best parts of the experience.

Likewise, the fudge-laden chocolate brownie is quickly snaffled, while the pot of custard and lemon filling on a bed of biscuit crumbs is eaten at a more leisurely pace - the tangy lemon flavour offset by luxurious custard and moreish biscuit base. Each spoonful and bite is interspersed by a sip of tea, helping to make sure there's room for the jewel on the crown.

Like a mini globe, the final element of the afternoon tea is almost too pretty to eat. The tonka bean chocolate swirls of blue, cream and brown certainly make it leap out on the stand, and after a delicate bite, it ticks the box for both style and substance. A very concentrated and heady taste of vanilla with undertones of almonds makes it a rather luxurious way to end what has been a very laid-back but delicious afternoon tea experience.

It seems rude not to sample one of their 20 hot chocolates on offer, so I grab a Kinder Bueno for the road, and as I step outside onto the Burton Road, I can't help but think abut those customers who failed to turn up for their afternoon tea a few weeks back - it seems their loss was most certainly my gain.